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Which laser to choose for hair removal?


As usual, let's start our story with theory.


When studying different lasers for hair removal, we pay attention to the depth of action. But to understand what depth we need, it is important to learn more about hair, its structure, and growth characteristics.



Hair grows at different depths on different parts of the body. The hair follicles from which hair grows are located at different depths in the skin depending on the location.


It is important to note that the genetic factor also affects the depth of hair. Depending on this, people with different Fitzpatrick (this is a classification system used in dermatology and cosmetology to determine the type of human skin.) The depth of hair follicles and their number differ.



The deepest hair follicles are found on the scalp, especially on the back of the head and temples. Here, the hair follicles are in the dermis, the deeper layer of the skin, and reach a depth of up to 4 mm.



On the face and neck, hair follicles are located in the epidermis and dermis at a depth of about 2 mm. On the body, hair follicles are located in the upper part of the dermis, at a depth of about 1 mm.



On the arms and legs, the hair follicles are located in the upper dermis, at a depth of about 1 mm. However, in some areas, such as the armpits and groin, the hair follicles can be as deep as 3 mm.



These differences in the depth of hair follicles on different parts of the body can affect the effectiveness of laser hair removal and other hair removal methods, as different methods may affect hair follicles at different depths.


Let's consider what physiological factors influence the quality of depilation?



The quality of laser hair removal can be significantly improved by taking into account various physiological factors that affect the effectiveness of the procedure. Some of these factors include:



  1. Hair color: The darker the hair color, the more effective laser hair removal is. This is because laser light is better absorbed by hair pigments such as melanin, which leads to damage to the hair follicles and their subsequent disappearance.

  2. Skin color: People with dark skin have more melanin in the skin itself, so when using laser hair removal, they may have a higher risk of skin damage. In order to avoid complications, laser devices are used that can regulate the depth of penetration of the laser beam and select the appropriate wavelength. Therefore, when hair removal is performed on dark skin, some of the energy is absorbed by the skin itself, as a result, the hair takes less energy and is removed worse.

  3. Hair thickness and texture: The thicker the hair, the more laser energy is required to remove it. Hair texture can also affect the effectiveness of the procedure.

  4. Hormonal background: Changes in hormone levels in the body can affect the quality of laser hair removal, as they can affect hair growth. A common example is when, after a course of hair removal, the patient may return to the procedures due to childbirth or other events affecting the hormonal balance.

  5. Skin sensitivity: People with particularly sensitive skin may experience discomfort or even pain during the procedure. To reduce pain, special cooling gels or devices are used, but the laser power is also reduced.

  6. Hair growth stage: Laser hair removal is more effective on actively growing hair, so a series of treatments are performed at specific time intervals to cover all stages of hair growth.


Let's consider the phases of hair growth and their impact on the effectiveness of laser hair removal.


Many people believe that hair is removed due to the thermal effect on the root, but it is important to pay attention to the fact that the effect is achieved by destroying the connection between the hair follicle and blood vessels.


The hair follicle is a small organ that is responsible for the growth and development of hair. It is nourished by the blood vessels that are located around it and supply the necessary nutrients and oxygen.


When heated by a laser beam, this connection is broken. Of course, its restoration is possible, hormonal activity, nutrition with vitamins and minerals can help in restoring hair growth. Therefore, for high-quality laser hair removal, regularity and number of procedures are important.



Let's get back to depilation equipment, its types and the differences between them.


Let's consider 2 types of hair removal: laser and photo hair removal.



The main difference between laser hair removal and photoepilation is that laser hair removal uses a narrower spectrum of light, making it more precise and effective in removing hair, but only on certain skin and hair types.


On the other hand, photo depilation may be more versatile and effective for hair removal on different skin types, but may require more procedures to achieve the desired result.



Photo depilation depth up to 690nm, laser depth up to 1064nm.


However, as we already know, facial hair, as well as vellus hair on the body, grow superficially and photo epilation can cope with them better. Also, often in IPL devices (photo epilation) add an electric pulse - this is a way of additional heating of the hair. This method is effective if the hair does not have enough melanin pigment, which is needed to heat the root.


For hair removal, different types of lasers are used, differing in wavelength, power, pulse energy and other parameters. Some of them are:



  1. Diode lasers: have a wavelength of 800-810 nm and are widely used in beauty salons. They usually work at deeper levels of the skin, which can lead to an increased risk of burns and other side effects.

  2. Neodymium laser: It has a wavelength of 1064 nm and is used to remove hair on dark skin. It is able to penetrate deeper layers of the skin, making it more effective for removing hair on rough areas such as the legs and bikini area.

  3. Alexandrite laser: has a wavelength of 755 nm and is used to remove hair on lighter skin. It is considered one of the most effective types of lasers for hair removal and is commonly used to remove hair on the face, arms, and legs.

  4. Three-wave laser: (hybrid of Alexandrite + Diode + Neodymium lasers) this technology is universal for 70% of the population and shows high efficiency for mixed hair types.

  5. Intense Pulsed Light ( IPL ) machines: These are not lasers, but are used for hair removal in beauty salons. They use a wide range of light waves, making them less precise but more versatile for different skin types and hair colors.

There are several factors to consider when choosing a hair removal device.



  1. The service life of the equipment is optimally up to 5 years

  2. Annual maintenance of the device

  3. The experience of the master, it is not only the number of years that is important, but also the number of patients

  4. Experience of the master. this type of device, as well as experience working with other models


Therefore, it is worth focusing on the choice of a specialist and the amount of equipment in the clinic and its operating time. Any high-tech laser with incorrect settings and violation of technology will not give a good result.



When choosing a device, you should consider your skin type and hair color, as well as the area of the depilation zone for which it will be used. Therefore, it is important to choose an experienced specialist who will create a work program for you and select the type of laser.



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